Neil Basu
Neil Basu
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Tokyo 東京

3/31/2015

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I'm writing this from the Shinkansen, bound for Osaka (though posting from my friend's place because my battery ran out before).  Having been to Tokyo before, it wasn't as daunting as the first time.  I have a 3-week JR pass, so the initial confusion on metro vs JR subways in Tokyo is mostly moot, as I mostly ignored trains that weren't JR unless necessary.

Among my new experiences was Golden Gai in Shinjuku - went with two Long Islanders from the hostel.  It took a little while to get there, having to pass the one shady street in Tokyo with Nigerians who promise foreigners a good time in some nearby club.   Needless to say, don't go in.  Go to the nearby Golden Gai.  It's a series of side streets with bars everywhere that usually seat 6-10 people.    Very small and personal.  Only one we found was a bit bigger and usually has a small crowd around it.

I made a return trip to Tsukiji Market on Monday, not bothering to wake up early and try and make the auction this time.  I found a sushi place nearby (possibly adjacent to the one I went to the first time).  It had a shorter line associated with it, but the sushi as usual tasted amazing, noticeably more fresh, AND they give you a huge piece of Conger Eel (穴子) for the final course.

From there I had to fulfill a mission I promised myself for Tokyo: To track down the Pokemon Mega Center in Ikebukurou.  (Un?)fortunately, I was sidetracked by Donki houdei, Japan's crazy novelty shop (though this one didn't have nearly as much of the crazy as I hoped for - maybe I should've bought that game where two people need to try and force a pair of underwear off of the other person though).

But anyway, I found the Pokemon Center and it was glorious.  Pokemon plushies and knick-knacks galore.  I bought myself a few things and some gifts here.  I guess the only major complaint I would give the place is a general thing where things in Japan are marketed as cute, so I couldn't find Mega Aggron souvenirs anywhere. :(

Akihabara has been good to me.  The arcades here are as lively as ever, and the arcade industry is still booming.  New rhythm games, fighting games, and games of other genres.  I spent the most time playing Tekken 7, a new Mario Kart game, Person 4 Ultimate Arena, and Gunslinger Stratos.  The latter game is probably the least known in the west.  It's an arcade shooter and 3D fighter in one, where your controllers are two guns (you wield both, not just one), with one controller having movement controls and the other camera and jump controls.

Tuesday was a Hachiko hunt day.  I started in Shibuya with the original (or technically remade) statue of Hachiko, and walked to a park near Harajuku where the sakura were blooming.  But a new statue recently came up in the University of Tokyo, where the dog and his human Ueno were reunited at last.  It took a while, because the statue was not on the main campus but instead near the Agriculture Department on the northern end.  No pictures of University of Tokyo, but it was a weird dichotomy.  Some parts were endless boring buildings and other parts were beautiful parks.  It felt about the size of Princeton and was easy to get lost there.

次は関西なんや!
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Capoeira and Some Interesting Food

3/29/2015

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Picture
CDO Tokyo.  Full disclosure, the above photo was taken for a guest teacher, not for me.

It's been a few days here in Tokyo already, and to be honest I haven't done a whole lot of sightseeing yet.

On Thursday and Saturday I dropped into CDO Tokyo.  Their capoeira style is "similar" to my group's, in the sense that certain movements kind of exist in both.  In actuality, it felt fundamentally different.  For example, a lot more emphasis was placed on backbend escapes and kicks, which we touch upon in Quintal but not nearly as much.

Besides that, I met up with two friends of mine living in Tokyo.  The first, Akane, and I went to a barbecue place, specializing in those weird organs Americans would never eat.  What we ate included chicken heart, cow tongue, and cow stomach, but the only thing we had that was new was cow breast.  Today I hung out with a friend Jinyoung, and the two of us went and ate blowfish.  Tastes a bit like octopus but not as tough.  So far not dead, I'll see.

The air here is really dry, and resultingly I'm really dehydrated.  For the second and third night, despite having 2-3 drinks and not even getting drunk, I had a massive hangover after.
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Koh Mook - It's alright

3/24/2015

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I took a long boat from Koh Sukorn to Koh Mook yesterday morning, arriving on the southern beach of Koh Mook.  Already I see the difference: tourists everywhere.  Definitely a change of pace.  I found where I was staying, and I definitely picked the budget place.  The toilet doesn't even flush, by design.  You pour water into it.  I've just been using other toilets, which for some reason do flush, the entire time.

While Koh Mook is about the same size as Koh Sukorn, the inhabited area is much smaller.  Where it took all day to bike through Koh Sukorn, I walked all of Koh Mook in about 3 hours.  Still has some villager feel but it's definitely a tourist place (imo the beaches aren't even as nice).  On my second day here, I was bored enough that I rented a motorbike and took it for a spin, just to learn how to ride one in a relatively risk-free place (no car traffic, minimal traffic in general).

That said, there were two major highlights.  The first was a fire show in a bar right next door from where I'm staying, usually every night at 9:30.  Talented guy who does it, for sure.

The second is probably the main reason this is a tourist attraction at all, Emerald Cave.  It's a small cave on the side of the island, only accessible by sea.  You can swim (as I did) or kayak through; it's only 30m long.  On the other side is an amazing enclosed beach, surrounded by extremely tall mountains on each side.  I couldn't take my camera with me but I'll probably post one I find online.

I return to Bangkok tomorrow morning as long as I get to the airport in time.  Time on this island drags on so much that I rescheduled my flight from 6 PM to 11:45 AM.
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Steamed Rice?

3/23/2015

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In most Asian countries, if the meal calls for rice, or usually just comes with rice. This is not true in Thailand, where they ask if you wanted rice with your meal.  So this includes foods you'd think would obviously include rice, such as curry, or foods you wouldn't think would include rice, such as soup.

In America, you usually have to account for tax when paying for your meal.  In Thailand, you account for the cost of the rice (usually 15-20 baht).
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Trang and Koh Sukorn

3/22/2015

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I arrived in Trang yesterday after a 10 hour bus ride from Hua Hin.  The one rest area we stopped at was maybe 2 hours into the bus ride (the route started in Bangkok, but they make stops based on request, it seems.  

I arrived in the Trang bus terminal around 8 PM with no idea where I was.  No taxis or tuk tuks.  The only option was to take a motorbike cab.  Did I mention I've never been on a motorbike before?  Like what's even proper etiquette when you're on the back?

The hostel in Trang was pretty cool.  Night market nearby where I found all sorts of cool foods I haven't seen so far.  Seems like a lot of custardy pastries with fruit in them.  There was some weird looking seafood I wanted to try the next day, but the next morning, there was a little problem.

I double-booked for the 19th.  My room in Trang was booked for the 19th and 20th, and Hua Hin was booked through the 19th.  Sure enough, my first night in the island Koh Sukorn was booked for the 21st.  Uh, oops?  Well, I got the hostel to call what they called a public taxi.  This might be a good time to mention this usually leaves at 11 am, and I found out about the double-booking at 10:15.

The taxi comes, and it's closer to a pickup truck with tiny benches. I suppose this is what I knew I'd be signing up for.  There's maybe a dozen people in there.

The taxi brings us directly to the pier, where we boarded by far the jankiest boat I have ever been on.  The wood almost seemed loose and stepping on one side would tilt the boat further than you'd expect.

I mean we made it across alive so that's something, right?

The island has some beautiful, off-the-beaten-path beaches.  I'm not much of a beach person, but maybe it's because the ones in Jersey are pretty trashy (including the literal trash).  You can even see tiny crabs and their eggs everywhere (some as big as a pebble).

I'm staying in a Bungalow near the beach, and I've barely seen anyone else here.

So that was all yesterday.

Today, I rented a bicycle.  I suppose I had the option of a motorbike and this would be an excellent chance to try one due to the minimal traffic here.  Ah well.  There are three villages in the island: Ban Laem, Ban Thung, and Ban Siammai.  Bare in mind my reasons for staying longer in one village over another is entirely situational.  

I spent at least two hours in Ban Thung, with a family who runs a small grocery store and sells fried bananas (I ate a few, but I'm not supposed to eat fried food, urgh).  Their English was extremely limited, and the kids got their textbooks to practice with me, which was fun.  Some of the words were misspelled, and it bothered me to the point I had to scratch it out (ex. thanks you, lemonage, bachache).  We played a bit of soccer, which I'm not really good at.  That said, it did result in me teaching one of the kids how to do a Chapeu de Couro (google it).  Hopefully he's showing off to his friends.

I biked through Ban Laem, didn't stop very much.

I'm definitely getting more stares here than closer to Bangkok, and a bunch of random hellos.  I expected it, but it feels strange to be in the center of attention so much.

I then biked out to Ban Siammai, which seems a little more active than the other villages.  I stopped in one store full of guys watching a Muay Thai match on TV (no pictures, slipped my mind :[ ).  They were really into it.

I went to complete the full lap around the island (about 8 km).  Turns out the last leg takes me up through the mountains, and then through the woods, where I lost track of the paved trail for a while.  Hm.  Lost in the woods with a something one rides manually.  About 3 days until I leave Thailand.  You've met a terrible fate, haven't you?
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Beaches and Muay Thai

3/19/2015

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On my first night in Hua Hin, unsure of what to do, I found a sign saying there were Muay Thai fights every Tuesday and Saturday.  It was Tuesday.  I couldn't not go.

There were five fights, and the first fight was won by KO.  Muay Thai is rhythmic and flowy compared to normal boxing, and traditional Muay Thai music was playing.  Just to try it out (I'm not quitting capoeira, don't worry!), the next day I signed up for a 101 in Muay Thai.  I took the 1-on-1 session this morning, and good god my shin is red from all of the kicks I threw.  My right fist felt like it was ready to give out too.

While clearly two different styles, I found a few subtle similarities between Muay Thai and Capoeira, including shifting your weight into your kicks, keeping yourself relaxed until you attack, and the common roundhouse/martelo and front kick/chapa kicks.  The instructor was actually impressed seeing how I did on my first time. :)

There are two beaches I saw in the area.  One was in Hua Hin, and apparently just isn't as good (a lot of shellfish), and so I had to trek 5 km south (by bike one day, and a small bus the other) to get to the good beach.  This good beach also has a small mountain filled with monkeys who WILL steal your shit if you're not careful.

Next stop is Trang.  It's far and obscure, but I managed to secure a bus ticket tonight.
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Subtle Observations

3/18/2015

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In Thailand, as is the case everywhere, you're bound to observe differences in culture.  These differences stem from a mix of cultural norms, and in many cases in the east, a history of being occupied.  Thailand, however, was never occupied by a foreign power, but instead would change its laws depending on who they are using with at the time.  Of course, that is hardly the car with many of examples, but it's good to keep in mind.

That said, here are a few things I'm still adjusting to, or still appreciating:

- when buying a bottle of water from a convenience store, they usually give you a straw.  This is true of many other establishments.  My symptom here is the act of drinking from the bottle looks crude by comparison

- despite every Thai restaurant in the US and the eating cultures of surrounding countries, I rarely see chopsticks here.  I've had very few meals using them.  Even locals seem to use forks. This probably stems back to the changing of laws

- street food takeout places have sometimes give me utensils, but not the locals.  They probably carry their own or bring the food home/to work

- fresh fruit blended with some ice and water, everywhere, is amazing

- this is more obvious, but food (ie fruit) is usually sold fresh and ripe each day.  No green bananas here.

- you hear stories about scanners everywhere, and that combined with my experiences with Indian beggars, I expected a similar experience here.  This is not the case.  Scammers here are pretty obvious, and everyone else is extremely helpful

- Most people here speak English, but the average person not as well as I expected.  Still, they're usually better than most people in India

- Sometimes an r is randomly inserted into words.  One famous street in Bangkok is called khao san, but I've seen it written khao sarn.  Similarly, an island in going to is called koh sukon or koh sukorn

- food and drink usually arrive at the same time, though this might be because I'm ordering shakes

- side streets are usually assigned numbers and names, with numbering for that district.  Sometimes a side street off of another street is the same number
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Shopping and Sightseeing in Bangkok

3/17/2015

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I'm now in Hua Hin, so the router problem I had in Bangkok is resolved and I bought an SD card reader.  I'm back in business.

The weekend market in Bangkok is incredible.  It's a .5km x .5km marketplace with everything from Muay Thai equipment to belts to live rabbits to ice pops to random trinkets.  I spent over four hours there, and only left once I found the same stores twice.  The stores are more like stands in a small compact area, and you can easily get lost between everything.  And it's all cheap of course (I got a good belt for 100 baht, ~3 USD).

Among that, I also visited an art exhibition with a local, a pier area not too different from Pier 39, and visited the Grand Palace here in Bangkok.  Khao san street/area is wild, where are the parties and tourists are.  All I did there was eat and buy a shirt, so I'm sure I got the total experience.  I met a Japanese guy at a Pad Thai stand who didn't speak much English; we were able to carry most of the conversation in Japanese, which means my Japanese tutoring sessions definitely paid off.


My last day in Bangkok started off tame enough - I went to the Grand Palace.  I'd tried going on my first day, not knowing it closed at 4:30.  The Emerald Buddha was surprisingly small, but the building it was in and the palace were amazing - my highlight was a series of wall paintings (some pictures included in slideshow).

Now, how else to end a stay in Bangkok?  Why, Irish music and whiskey in the hostel of course!

The people in the hostel are amazing, definitely moreso than many of the previous hostels I've stayed in. I've made quite a few friends and acquaintances at Lub d.  If any of you guys are reading this, hi!  What's really surprising is how few Americans I meet in these tourist areas, and how many people quit their jobs to travel.


tl;dr, I really loved Bangkok and the people in it
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Mon, Mar 16, 2015

3/15/2015

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Both the weebly site and my camera's cable are failing on me.  These are the two specific things I was relying on for updating this blog.  Sigh
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The First Day

3/13/2015

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